Three walking highlights of summer in the French Alps

We were drawn to Argentière and Chamonix Valley for the winter snow skiing. While we had been told the Alps were special in summer, and had a few experiences in the area in spring, we had completely underestimated just how special the region is when the snow has melted.

Firstly, the summer mountains and views out our apartment windows are entirely different to winter – without the dense snowy whiteness of other seasons, the foot of Argentière Glacier is visible. Trees are lush and thick, many shades of green; waterfalls dot the mountainside offloading the melting snow and ice.

Then, once you venture out into into the mountains, it’s clear why Chamonix was founded as a mecca of outdoor destinations – hiking, biking, mountaineering, paragliding, climbing, sightseeing… and dining on the abundant restaurant terraces – squeezed wherever outdoor seating will fit, especially when there is a view to behold.

Three recent family friendly highlights

Glacier d’Argentière and the Grands Montets:

You can almost see the route between the top of Grands Montets Lognan lift to Glacier d’Argentière from the apartment. Approximately 90 minutes walk across and around the mountain side, with a slight ascent, through farmed pastures (including the sheep and goats with bells around their necks, which impressively navigate steep and rocky landscapes!).

Glacier d’Argentière has retreated around 1000m in just over 100 years, most rapidly shrinking in the past 40 years. It’s both a testament to nature’s history and might, yet visible indictment that climate change is real. It once snaked all the way down the canyon to the edge of the the village. once you’ve finished admiring the glacier, the wisest return is via the Lognan lift (though beware their lunch break hours!); while possible to hike back down to Argentière, the descent along the ‘home trail’ under Lognan lift is steep and rubbly.

Glacier du Tour and Refuge Albert 1er:

Arriving at Le Tour by 8:30am (the number 2 bus makes this super easy), means catching an early ride up on telecabine Charmillion to 1850m, then a fresh shady ride up to 2195m on les Autannes chair lift. From here a reasonably gradual ascent over a well marked path, admittedly including some rock scrambling in the final section, to Refuge Albert 1er at 2702m. This hike takes about 2 hours, the second hour of which has awe-inspiring views of Glacier du Tour. Once at Refuge Albert 1er, aside from breathtaking views of the crevasse filled ice-field, refreshments and meals are available (as is overnight accommodation if needed).

The return hike can either follow the same path or fork left once back in the grassy Balme area, descending through lush pastures fillers with wild-flowers and insects benefitting from snow-melt-driven-streams (keep an eye out for Lacs d’Emosson reservoir / dam, above Vallorcine.) The final return descent into Le Tour can be either hiked or via the telecabine. Throughout the area refuges serve meals and refreshments. Total return hike takes approximately 3-4 hours and is a real treat.

Plan Praz to Chamonix’s Saturday market:

The walk from Argentière to Chamonix takes about 2 hours. A handy shortcut is to top on the Mont Blanc express train down to Les Praz (or Les Tines if you want a little extra leg stretching and to go via the beautiful golf course). This makes for an easy, shady, half hour walk along the river, past the leisure centre and new QC Terme Chamonix.

This walk brings you to Place du Mont Blanc, home of the Saturday morning market, where all sorts of local and regional delicacies can be found for self-catered meals – organic fruit and vegetables, bread, cheese, fresh pasta, spices, plants, confitures, cured meats like saucisson and jambon, fish and seafood… it’s a foodie-delight.

Lots of well earned rest at the end of each day!

Timing it well, delicious picnics put together from the market produce are a perfect match to half day hikes like to these glaciers! Next time we’re in the valley for a long weekend or longer!